”Long an icon across my memory bank, as well as it still serves me: from my early days in retail to time in New York as a sommelier and even Paris, where it appeared momentarily on the list at Willie's. A seminal moment when Australian wine got a look in. And now? Classic. In an Australian sense. Lightened up over the years in terms of the oak, but the forcefield of graphite-bitter-chocolate-bouquet grain tannins is the driver. Long. Mulch, red and blackcurrant scents and a swab of olive linger. This is very good, auguring for a long life.”