”A site sandwiched between sandy creek beds, dry grown and planted in 1908. Set the compass, because this is a paean to a rich heritage as much as a looking glass into the brightest of futures. Lightweight. A skitter of lemon zest, tamarind and quince, bulwarked with a talcy mineral pungency and a juicy acid kit. Long, tactile and pummelling of intensity. This is a late-released Hunter semillon, barely nudging middle age. Strap yourself in, turn Eddie Van Halen up to full volume and get ready. Stevens, the exuberant. Belford, the intellectual nerd. This, the louche with class.”