”It has all the regional flavours one could wish for – the sweet mulberries, cassis, the bay leaves, freshly rolled tobacco, choc-mint and nori. But wait, there’s more. It’s full bodied, rich and ripe, structured and detailed in equal measure with plentiful if firm tannins. This is going to last quite some distance but it offers a compelling argument to have a glass or two now, such is its vibrancy and appeal.”