”You don’t see that many vintage ‘port-style’ fortifieds these days, nor encounter those prepared to cellar them, but bravo for not giving in to trend, I say. This is obviously very young, with the greatest riches yet to come, but the promise is there, and then some. It smells of another time, a wine from a barrel lashed to a galleon. Fanciful, sure, but the aromas of black tea, dried dates, tarry molasses, fine vanilla and preserved cumquats all have pre-industrial trade echoes. Okay, definitely fanciful, but this is really superb. Age it for a decade or two and drink in the one sitting. Stunning. 500ml.”