”A single vineyard sourcing from Blewitt Springs. Sand over shale. Planted in 1985. This stands close to the top of the regional totem pole. The tannins, sandalwood-brushed and wiry, inflected with a briary rasp and additional complexity from 25% whole bunches. The fruit, lifted by florals and the crunch of raspberry, pomegranate and rosehip. Tamarind, bergamot and clove, the savoury portals, underlying. My sole misgiving, the 25% new oak. Larger-format wood, in my view, the better option. Very good, all the same.”