”There is so much to ponder across this Koomilya triumvirate that writing notes on wines that, in the words of Stephen Pannell, symbolise ‘a reclamation of Australian shiraz’, is a study unto itself. I adore this sentiment, because much in this country has become too big, too sweet and too challenging to drink, or conversely, overly reductive. Not here! The JC is comprised of 46yo vines on silty alluvials flecked with ironstone. Hand picked. Minimal messing. Jubey and floral. Pomegranate, persimmon, blue- and red-fruit allusions, hung game and ample Asian spice undertones. Best, the tannins! As with all of these Koomilya iterations! Here, a splay of moreish, detailed and utterly precise stitches, like imprints in calf-skin leather across the palate, serve as a weapon to combat any unwanted seam of sweetness. Superlative warm-climate shiraz.”