”Of all the single-site chardonnays from ‘23, this just has the edge, and while it will last some distance, gee it’s irresistible now. Super savoury with a briny, almost oyster-shell character alongside citrus and crushed coriander seeds. Moreish and mouth-watering with fine acidity, off-set by equally fine texture. It’s tightly wound, given its youth, yet this is also composed, complete and delicious.”