”The union of the richness of Ay and the tension of the Cote des Blancs is compelling at Lallier, charged with a pure chalk thrust that unites Ay, Avize, Cramant and Oger. The 2019 vintage exemplifies this more profoundly than ever. There is excellent purity here of white peach, lemon and salted beurre bosc pear. Lees age builds a gentle complexity of toasted coconut, vanilla cream and almond nougat. The salty minerality of its crus is pronounced and profound, pure and pristine, driving great persistence.”