”This has certainly softened in its old(er) age, but is showing few signs of slowing down. As we expect from older cabernet, the tannins have melted into the fruit, akin to the way marbled fat melts into the flesh of a good Wagyu steak. The fruit is fleshy, dark and layered with spice: licorice root, star anise, clove and peppercorns, with a smattering of cigar box, tobacco leaf and freshly grated nutmeg. The chalky and very fine tannins are a highlight.”