”This vintage, a cool year and a fine one, the pinnacle Pannell grenache wines need extra time. This, from Blewitt Springs, and 80-year-old vines, is majestic, corseted to a degree by the commanding tannins of the year, but not diminished by them. The Pannell mandate of preservation of freshness is still on full display, if with some initial reticence. Redcurrant, rosehip, raspberry leaf tea, crushed rose, bergamot, dried orange peel, musk, mace and white pepper – so layered – underscored by a bass note of old-vine depth serenely cruising in low gear, in no rush, quietly confident. It’s a stunning expression.”