”Pale crimson in the glass, the swill itself deft, dignified. This poise, together with tight bright fruit, leads the trajectory for this lovely wine from the cool and late ripening ’23 vintage. The wine is well-lit and the bouquet carries noteworthy lift. Red cherry, plum and Christmas berries scatter throughout. Umami undertones, too, leaf litter, bresaola and turned earth. There is no negotiation between structure and fruit here, just supreme balance. The tannins are authoritative yet joyous, lending frame through an enduring, savoury-leaning finish with plenty of spice, Szechuan, clove and anise. If quiet elegance were a wine, this would be the embodiment.”