”First poured, a ghastly apparition appeared – as if this had been placed in a corset and cinched tight. In a vinous sense, that means decanting or letting this beauty breathe in the glass. It has all the varietal appeal of Margs: its shapely tannins, supple and ever-so-slightly grainy and its savouriness. Very little oak impact (15% new French barriques), other than offering a complementary light seasoning of cedary spices.”